Why I love to surf

Yes, that is what I wrote, why I love to SURF. This past weekend I was blessed with the opportunity to learn how to surf. I woke up when the tide came in approximately around 5:45am. I did not have much sleep from the night before so I was literally pulled out of bed. When we arrived on the beach it was light out yet the sun was nowhere to be seen, the dark clouds were in the way. I imagined the water to be cool, yet it was perfect. My friend took off running into the ocean with their board, jumping onto it and paddling out into the water. I felt half asleep as I attempted to wrap the band around my ankle. I skipped over to the waves crashing onto the shore and realized I was finally doing it, I was going to accomplish another task off of my 'To Do' list. Number 13, on this list that I created when I was 20 years old, meant more to me than just marking off another goal. It hit me hard from the gulp in the back of my throat to the pounding in my chest. The very reason #13 was in my life expectations of goals to accomplished before I die was due to my dad. He surfed when he was younger, I cherished the stories he told me of riding the waves, the jelly fish stings, and how he and his twin brother shared a board because they only had one. He motivated me to one day try this en captivating sport.
So, there I was, a young-looking 34 year old woman staring out at the ocean ready to ride a fierce form of creation. I was ready, I thought to myself: "If my dad did it, so can I!" It was as if he was there, telling me to "Go for it!"
I ran in, hopped on, paddled out, caught glimpse of a wave forming, swam with it, pushed myself up and fell....then I did it all over again. Hit my head, hit my ribs, got back up, got knocked down again by the beastly crash of the water. Then it occurred, on the third try, as I jumped up onto the board: I had balance, I had strength, I was doing it, I WAS SURFING!!!
It felt amazing, to be guided on something so uncontrollable and so free, that at any moment it could throw you off or you could lose focus and slip. I continued to ride the waves throughout the next hour and a half. The sun came up from the outskirts of the waters horizon as the clouds moved. It was brilliant, God was there, creation was sharing its incomparable peace. Dolphins were jumping in the distance and the sound of the ocean was washing over my heart, restoring me. Yes, I will return to the water, this is why I love to surf. When I sleep - I dream of this, when I wake - I long for this. My God gives peace like these waters and He beckons my soul.